Wevo motor mounts


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The car had RS engine mounts which is good but I wanted to replace them with Wevo semi-solid engine mounts which offer even better accuracy than the RS mounts. When needed the pillows can be replaced and replacement kits are available for example from twinsparkracing.com

The two bolts on each of the Wevo mounts shall be torqued at a maximum of 23nm to the car. The centre bolt on each engine mount can be torqued at a maximum of 54nm.


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I also wanted to upgrade the transmission and engine mount and bought an insert kit from Tarett Engineering (tarett.com). Firstly, I removed the undercover and then the crossmember. Then the gearbox bracket could easily be unbolted to get access to the transmission mount. Did some proper cleaning before reassembly. Polished the gearbox bracket with my Dremel and then applied Jet Laq (raceglaze.co.uk). The crossmember was cleaned using Alubright Deoxidiser (also available from raceglaze) and scrubbed with wire wool and then finally Jet Laq was applied.

After having fitted the insert kit the gearbox bracket was torqued to 46nm and the crossmember to 85nm.



Removal of chassis corrosion

I was inspired by jackals-forge.com to examine the rear chassis to see if there was corrosion behind the offside support plates that extends out from the main chassis legs. I also wanted to investigate the rear bumper absorbers and replace any rusted nuts and bolts and do some cleaning. Another area I wanted to investigate were the rear bumper supports which are prone to rust. Started off by removing the rear bumper and also the plastic covers under the side skirts (rocker panels).



There was surface rust on the outside of both chassis legs which I first treated with the Dremel to get rid of any loose rust.  After that both areas were given the full POR-15 treatment and then finally they were sprayed with Oceanic blue, L3AZ.



The offside support plates were given the same treatment.



The rear bumper supports were quite rusty and especially those furthest rear which I replaced. Those towards the front (left hand side of the picture below) were thoroughly cleaned and then given the full POR-15 (1) Marine Clean, 2) Prep and Ready, 3) POR-15 paint) treatment. Both front and rear supports were sprayed with Dinitrol Corrosion Prevention 4941 prior to mounting.



The areas behind the side skirts were cleaned and waxed with the very durable and heat resistant FK1000P.

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The inner heat shields were replaced due to corrosion. The adjacent rear heat shields had come loose because the fasteners were rusty or had fallen off. The  heat shields were in a resonable condition so they were cleaned with AluBright Deoxidizer scrubbed with wire wool and treated with JetLaq. All of the fasteners were replaced with new ones.  I read about the heat shields at rennlist.com and it is clearly recommended to make sure you have the shields in place because significant heat is generated in this area. I have, however, removed the undertray in order to improve cooling.



The rear bumper absorbers were replaced and treated with Dinitrol prior to mounting. The rear chassis legs were first sprayed inside with Dinitrol Cavity Wax 3125 and then Dinitrol Corrosion Prevention 4941.

The front chassis legs were given the same treatment but the front bumper absorbers were renovated as there was only a very small amount of rust on them. Also thoroughly cleaned the front bumper absorber bar. Unfortunately, I do not have any pictures from the front renovation.


Starting to put it all together again. The bumper absorber is now in place…


… and the heat shield.


The rear heat shields inside the bumper were in good condition and only needed to be cleaned and then applied with JetLaq before re-assembly.



The upper heat shields needed some more attention as parts of the aluminum tape had deteriorated. I cleaned the aluminum parts and ensured everything was dry. The final step was to repair with some new self adhesive tape.

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… just before mounting the bumper.


Sealing rear window and windshield

To prevent corrosion damage in the areas of the 993 front or rear window cowls, the gap between the glass edge and the car body should be sealed. This is also recommended by Porsche TSB 5106 9501. I found very useful tips at rennlist.com in this thread:

DIY – Sealing The 993 Windshield and Rear Window

The DIY is written by Bruce Carter and is very detailed including some really good photos.

I replaced the front window outer seal, Porsche PN 99354192500 and the rear window outer seal, Porsche PN 99354522502.

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First I removed the old rear seal and performed som proper cleaning of the gap. After everything was bone dry I followed Bruce’s instructions and masked the area around the rear window. I then applied Würth Bond+Seal, Würth PN 08901002, grey, 300ml cartridge in the gap around the rear window. This is the same product that Bruce used.

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For the windshield I removed the outer seal, cleaned the gap properly and masked as described above. Here I used another product called windshield sealant, Würth PN 0890100043, black 310ml. The advantage is that the painted areas around the windshield will not be damaged next time you need to replace the windshield. The sealant will not cure completely and is constantly sticky and easy to remove.



Wheel arches

With inspiration from jackals-forge.com I started what turned out to be a rather extensive job to clean and refurbish the wheel arches. Started to remove all the arch liners to give them also the proper cleaning treatment as described at jackals. The rear arches were properly cleaned and given the Zaino treatment (see jackals).



The left hand side before and after cleaning. The lower picture shows the final result with the Zaino treatment.


The right hand side before and after. You can see the oil filter here.

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The left hand side before and after.


The right hand side after cleaning but before treating it with Zaino.



The front arches were a different story as I found som rust around the welding spots below the suspension mounts.

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The area around both front suspension mounts cleaned from surface rust and prepared for  POR-15.

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Gave the arches the full POR-15 treatment including Marin Clean, Prep and Ready and then finally the paint. Added POR-15 rubberized undercoating and Würth Body 5000 chassis protection in order to achieve smooth edges. On the right hand side the area has been resprayed  with the color of the car, L3AZ.

Suspension overhaul



The cracked threaded collar on one of the front shocks.


Removed rear suspension with the worn drop links.


After removal of all four shocks and springs from the car Peter Lindvall, Lindvall Bil AB, helped me unscrew the top nuts which should, according to Porsche, be tightened at 200nm! The original fit included Loctite. After refitting the nuts I tightened them to 130nm.


Refurbished rear suspension including new drop links. To protect the threads from dirt and corrosion i treated them with some heavy duty grease. Also replaced the rear discs.


Refurbished front shocks with the new thread collars (greased) and nuts. Note the strut break line brackets that I opened up with the Dremel and painted with POR-15.


The complete front shock and spring reassembled…


… and installed on the car. The front discs were ok.

I noticed that one of the threaded collars had cracked. As the car was lowered to RS height we wanted to increase the height by 10mm to reduce the risk of scraping road bumps. Our Turbo has the RS sports chassis with RS drop links and the RS swaybar and RS engine mounts so we decided to remove the shocks and send them to get them tested. They proved to be in good shape and did not need to be replaced.

Both drop links to the rear suspension were replaced as the rubber boots were cracked. I bought the new drop links from Utzon.se. Peter Lindvall, my local Porsche indie, helped me unscrew the top nuts on the suspension struts as I wanted to replace some bits and pieces. All four bellows were replaced and surface rust was removed from the springs and they were repainted with black POR-15. The concave washers received the same treatment. The yellow parts of the shocks were thoroughly cleaned and then treated with FK 1000P wax as per recommendation from Jackals racetrack. I am a huge fan of jackals-forge.com and I have been very inspired by the DIYs he has done on his 993. The documentation is amazing and very thorough!